Monday, February 25, 2013

almost a success, help help!

Ok so as far as completing my 2013 Sewlution that went into Karen's Jar is concerned, i'd say this is a success! i wrote that i wanted to do something fully-lined, which i've never done before. well i did it! a dress with a full lining! i wrapped my brain around it and inserted my invisible zip in between the lining and the main fabric and it looks pretty awesome. 

but i'm having issues with the fit. it's close, but not quite right. if i hold still and stand perfectly it looks pretty good, but when i relax and wait a few minutes, then the issues become apparent. not a success. so i took a bunch of bathroom mirror shots (sorry, but i promise if you help me get the fit right, i'll do a full-on outdoor photoshoot). what should i do? 

the fit around the bust and shoulders is good. and i haven't hemmed up the bottom yet so when i do that, it will help balance the proportions (i left it extra long for now - it goes a little past my knees) and i haven't sewn up the bottom of the skirt yet below the zipper. it's pretty snug around the waist. i wouldn't want it any tighter, but i can breath with it the way it is, plus i can't let it out there. i saw that it might be a little tight there, so i already sewed the seam allowance narrower around the waist. well except for the darts, i guess i could let those out at the bottom a little? but then right above the waist it's loose. 

so, do i pinch out the excess in the side seams? 
or do i just raise the waist up? 
or do i do a bit of both? 
or something else entirely?

here are the photos:

standing straight and it looks ok at first…
and then relax and it gets all bunchy
bunchy view from the front
do i raise the waist up?
do i just pinch out the sides?

excess fabric around the middle and lower back (back of skirt below zip hasn't been sewn up yet)
dress inside out, full lining from the front
dress inside out, full lining from the back
yeah yeah yeah, i should've done a muslin. maybe next time. but this fabric was super cheap (on sale 50% off. actually the lining cost more than the main fabric, ha ha ha). and confession, now i think i sewed the back left skirt panel on backwards!  see how the lining fabric doesn't come together in the back? well i can't tell the front from the back of this ivory lining fabric and i think i got it backwards on the left side. i had it marked, but then probably got confused because the "good side" faces in toward my body and the "wrong side" faces out toward the main dress fabric. but it's just the lining, so i'll either fix it or add a little extra panel if needed. but the main fabric for the skirt does comes together perfectly in the back.

focusing on the positive: i feel like i made a huge leap in understanding linings and now i want to fully line everything. it feels so much more polished. 

but how do i fix the bunchy areas? any ideas or tips? help help!

24 comments:

  1. It looks like the bodice is too long. I'd try to raise the waist first. You don't want the bodice to be too tight...you do need to breathe!

    Good Luck!

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    1. thanks! i guess i'll give that a go first. i did lengthen the bodice by 2 inches, because the pattern looked super short on me. i have a long torso and i'm a little over 5'8". i always have a problem with things being too short, so now maybe i overdid it? i foresee fun times with my seam ripper ahead…

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    2. Agreed. Raise the waist. You need a little ease at the side seams so you don't split them when you sit!

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    3. Very true, splitting the side seams would not be good!!!

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  2. I would agree, I think the bodice looks a wee bit too long and doesn't quite sit on your natural waistline. I'd take it up by about 2 inches and see if it makes all the excess wrinkles go away. Cute dress though, and well done with the lining (I still haven't even started my lined dress yet...)

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    1. the bodice pattern pieces just looked soo short when i held them up to myself!! i guess i should've left the pattern alone? i might have to take a little break and do an easier project and come back to this afterward. hmmmm. it's rough to seam ripper something i spent the better part of the weekend on. but it's been very rainy here, so it's a good excuse to just stay inside and sew.

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  3. I like the fabric a lot and great job with the lining. I do agree that you might find a lot of issues go away when you shorten the waist by two inches. I think that (while it is a big job) it would be the easiest fix.

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    1. Thanks! I took everyone's comments to heart and ripped the skirt off last night. It's funny to say "ripped" just because i used my seam ripper, but i was actually very careful and it took awhile. Probably longer to rip out than it was to sew!!!! =)

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  4. I agree - it looks like the waist needs to be raised. It looks like it's going to be so pretty when you're done. Which pattern is this?

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    1. I think it was from 1978. It's "Style 2325." This post has a photo of the cover art: http://soisewedthis.blogspot.com/2013/01/2013-re-sew-lution-focus-on-enjoyment.html Nothy Lane sent it to me in the Patterns and Postcards swap =)

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    2. oh that's the pattern - that is so cute! I like that dress. and I love that it's fully lined. Good job so far. Can't wait to see the finished dress.

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  5. Well, unfortunately I agree with everyone else. I think the bodice looks too long. Which stinks because it means you'll have to unpick that beautiful invisible zipper! Wish I knew of a quicker fix. I'm long through the torso, too. But I've just recently come to the realization that my length is all below the waist. My actual waist sits pretty high. So if I do any lengthening, it's between the waist and hip if that makes sense. Pretty fabric!

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    1. You are too smart! I don't think i would've thought of that, but it makes perfect sense! I have a long torso, but i do think more of the length is between the waist and crotch rather than crotch and shoulder. Lightbulb moment

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  6. My two cents are the same as the rest: the bodice looks a little long. Once that is shortened, that might also help the back wrinkling and the sides. I would baste it higher and take another round of photos :)

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    1. Thanks, I'm taking all of your advice and i'm raising the waist up. Actually I think it needs to go up slightly higher in the back. Sway back adjustment? I'll baste it and take more photos. =)

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  7. I concur- bodice seems a bit long but damn that is looking good! This will be so worth it in the end :D

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    1. Thanks! I seam ripped the skirt last night and i think i need to invest in a better seam ripper! I just use the little one that came with my machine. talk about a pain in the… i think i need one with a larger handle.

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  8. Looks like the tribe has spoken, Raise the waist! I had the same issues when I made the Peony and Macaron, I had to shorten the bodice.

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    1. I was so confused why i would need to shorten it, because i have a long torso. It looked so short to begin with that i lengthened it. but now i'm pretty much going back to how it was on the original pattern. Looks like my long torso is mostly below the natural waist. i guess i'm average between the waist and shoulders. I have never looked at my measurements this critically, ha ha! That's what sewing does…

      I seam ripped the skirt off last night and also re-did that back left lining panel on the skirt, and i'll baste the skirt up higher tonight. fingers crossed

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    2. That's so funny because I had the same problem when I made the Macaron. My first muslin I lengthened it too because it looked so short. Had the same wrinkle problems you were having and couldn't figure out why in the world I'd want to shorten it, wouldn't it end up sitting under my boobs?? lol, luckily no. your fix looks great!

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  9. It's looking good! I love your choice of fabric. Once you take some length off the bodice, I think it will be perfect. The ease looks good, just about right for comfort and movement.

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    1. thanks! the fabric does have a little give to it, but i don't want to end up with zero ease and not be able to breathe =)

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  10. This is off topic of your dress but since you asked where I got my striped fabric from here's a link:
    https://www.fabric.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18b3f8da-9f68-4013-a216-50032fd4d3ab

    :) hope that helps!

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Thanks for reading! I welcome any advice, insights, witty remarks, snarky comebacks, commiserations or just a quick hello. I'd love to check out your blog as well, so let me know where you're posting. Happy sewing!